L.A. may not have a little Italy, but we have plenty of Italian restaurants. There are the classics like La Dolce Vita and Matteo’s, Brentwood’s Italian Row, and the ingredient-driven Osteria Mozza. But sometimes we want the kind of restaurant where gravy isn’t brown, pasta comes from a box, and portions could feed an army. For this we go to Vitello’s Italian Restaurant. It’s the only place to surround ourselves with braciola (thinly sliced beef stuffed with bread crumbs, prosciutto, and cheese), Robert Blake stories (where did he sit on that fateful night?), and opera singers. As it should, red sauce comes on everything, from thick slices of fried mozzarella to plates of mostaccioli and chicken parmigiana.